Volcanoes, ancient forests and year-round sunshine
Tenerife is the Canary Islands writ large — literally and figuratively. It is the biggest island in the archipelago, home to Spain's highest peak, and one of the most visited islands in Europe. Yet despite the numbers, it manages to offer something genuinely surprising: ancient laurel forests in the north that feel nothing like a beach resort, crater rims dusted with snow in winter, and whale-filled straits where you can watch sperm whales breach from a boat an hour after breakfast. The island contains multitudes.
The honest version: the south of Tenerife — Playa de las Américas, Los Cristianos, Costa Adeje — is classic sun-and-sand package territory. It is excellent at what it does: warm, reliable, full of restaurants and nightlife. If that is what you want, you will be very happy. But the north is a different country. Puerto de la Cruz sits under a canopy of subtropical greenery, La Laguna is a living UNESCO World Heritage city, and the Anaga peninsula to the east looks as if it has been lifted from a Jurassic film set. Come for the beach, stay for the rest of it.
Tenerife also earns its year-round reputation honestly. The south sees around 300 days of sunshine annually, and even in January you can swim in the sea comfortably. The north is cloudier and more temperate — perfect for hikers who do not want to melt. Mount Teide creates its own weather systems, so go early to the summit to avoid cloud. Whoever you are — family, couple, solo walker, culture-seeker — Tenerife has a version of itself for you.
Spain's most visited national park and the backdrop for Tenerife's most iconic image — the rust-red volcanic cone rising above a sea of clouds. Drive up to the Parador at 2,100m, walk the lunar trails around the caldera, and if you want to reach the very summit (3,715m) you need a free permit booked weeks in advance via the national park website. The cable car saves your legs but gets busy — go early, ideally before 9am. It is genuinely spectacular at any time of year.
The ancient laurel forest covering Tenerife's northeastern spine is a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve and one of the most biodiverse places in Europe. The trails through Anaga — from Taganana village down to the sea, or along the ridge between the two coasts — are the best hiking on the island. It is moody, green, and completely different from the tourist south. Mist rolls in from the Atlantic, the paths are muddy after rain, and the views from the mirador at Cruz del Carmen are extraordinary. Give it a full day.
The strait between Tenerife and La Gomera is one of the best places in Europe to watch cetaceans. Resident pods of short-finned pilot whales and common bottlenose dolphins are there year-round, and sperm whales are sighted regularly. Several responsible operators depart from Los Cristianos and Puerto Colón — look for ones certified by the Atlantic Whale Foundation. A two-hour morning boat trip is usually enough to see something, but the longer excursions give you more time at sea and better chances with the whales.
San Cristóbal de La Laguna was the first non-fortified Spanish colonial city and the model for cities across Latin America. Today it is a living, working city — home to the oldest university in the Canaries — with a beautifully preserved historic centre of painted merchant houses, quiet courtyards and cobbled lanes. It is a 20-minute tram ride from Santa Cruz. Go on a weekday, walk the Calle Obispo Rey Redondo, have lunch at a local tavern, and wonder why nobody told you about this place sooner.
Masca sits in a deep ravine in the Teno massif in the island's northwest — it looks like a film set, which is why everyone goes there. The drive alone, along vertiginous mountain roads, is an experience. The walk down the Masca gorge to the sea takes around three hours and finishes with a boat back to Los Gigantes. Book the boat in advance. The village itself is small and the road gets congested, so go early in the morning or late afternoon to avoid the coach tour traffic.
In 1706 a volcanic eruption destroyed the most prosperous port in the Canary Islands. What the lava left behind when it hit the sea was a series of extraordinary natural rock pools — El Caletón — that are now Tenerife's most photographed swimming spot. The pools are free, beautifully clear, and surrounded by the old town of Garachico, which rebuilt itself with some elegance. The town has good restaurants, a 16th-century fort now used as an aquarium, and a lovely central square. A perfect half-day from the north.
The vertical basalt cliffs at the island's western edge rise up to 800 metres straight out of the sea — among the tallest sea cliffs in the world. They are best seen from the water: boat trips from Los Gigantes marina run throughout the day and often combine cliff-viewing with dolphin watching and a swim stop in a sea cave. The resort of Los Gigantes itself is quiet and pleasant, with a good dark sand beach and none of the hectic energy of the southern resorts.
Love it or leave it — Loro Parque in Puerto de la Cruz is one of the best-regarded zoos in the world and a major draw for families. It houses orcas, sea lions, gorillas, chimpanzees, tigers and the largest collection of parrots on earth. The orca shows are controversial (as they are everywhere) but the park's conservation work and animal enclosures are genuinely impressive by any international standard. It is a full-day commitment — bring comfortable shoes and go early before the tour groups arrive.
A hire car is the single best thing you can do for your Tenerife trip. The TF-1 motorway links the south resorts to Santa Cruz quickly, and the roads throughout the island are in excellent condition — even the mountain switchbacks are well-maintained. Without a car you are largely restricted to the coastal resorts and what TITSA buses connect. The buses are good and cheap (a day pass costs around €8), but they do not get you to Masca, up Teide, or into the Anaga forest at anything like a useful time. Petrol stations are plentiful. Parking in La Laguna and Santa Cruz requires patience, but there are well-signed car parks.
If you prefer not to drive, the tram between Santa Cruz and La Laguna is genuinely convenient and runs frequently. Taxis are metered and reasonably priced by UK standards. For Teide specifically, several tour operators run day trips from both north and south resorts — useful if you are nervous about mountain driving or want a guide to explain the geology. But for real flexibility, nothing beats having your own wheels.
The south — Playa de las Américas, Los Cristianos, and the newer Costa Adeje — is where the majority of package tourists stay, and with good reason: guaranteed sunshine, large beaches, and a resort infrastructure that is hard to fault. Hotels range from budget to genuinely luxurious five-star properties in Costa Adeje. It is not particularly Canarian in character, but it is very good at sun holidays. Los Cristianos has slightly more local flavour than its neighbours.
Puerto de la Cruz in the north is the alternative for those who want atmosphere over guaranteed blue skies. It has real character — old town streets, botanical gardens, a lido designed by Canarian architect César Manrique — and serves as a good base for Teide and Anaga. La Laguna is excellent for culture-focused visitors who want to be in a living city rather than a resort. Families should note that the northern beaches are black volcanic sand and rougher; the south is where you want to be for conventional beach holidays.
Tenerife has two airports, which causes genuine confusion. Tenerife South (TFS, also called Reina Sofía) is 60km from Santa Cruz and closest to the southern resorts — this is where most charter and budget flights from the UK and Europe land. Tenerife North (TFN, Los Rodeos) is 11km from Santa Cruz and serves mainly inter-island connections and some mainland Spanish routes. Unless you are specifically heading to La Laguna or the north, book for TFS. Direct flights operate year-round from most UK regional airports, typically four to five hours depending on departure point.